More Than Fashion: Indigenous Clothing Tells a Story

By Joëlle Arianna Staropoli & Paige Gray

Originally Published December 12, 2023

Though most cultures look to clothing for climate survival and sometimes trending designs; the purpose of Indigenous clothing also considers survival through spiritual expressions and healing that provides a duality of expression and functionality from generation to generation.

The Indigenous Peoples Atlas of Canada describes the importance of functionality in clothing throughout Inuit culture by saying,  “[Inuit] clothing is well-adapted to the climate and the activities necessary for survival”. 

Jennifer Meness, an English professor at Toronto Metropolitan University and Indigenous Storyteller from the Algonquins of Pikwàkànàgan First Nation, says different stories can be crafted through the finest details in clothing.

When discussing ribbon skirts, she explains, “Many times, the things that are on the skirt relate to who they are, so it’s clans or colours, or for some nations, they have birth order that has specific colours, too. The skirts, the ribbons mean things.” 

Meness expressed her worry that the modernizing of Indigenous fashion can misconstrue its symbolism and instead gravitate towards the aesthetic of a design rather than uphold its traditional meaning. She explains that, "designers may use the shock factor at the expense of culture and belief.” 

To expand on this, she discussed the story behind the purpose of jingle dresses.

“It was a gift from the Spirit to heal a young girl.” Meness recounts, “The thunder beings gave us the jingles to make a certain sound to bring healing in a ceremony at a time to call them for healing. So if we are wearing jingles all the time, are we crying wolf?”

When non Indigenous brands or consumers steal these designs, and unknowingly integrate cultural pieces into their wardrobe, without the proper background knowledge the significance of the garment loses its history and meaning.

This was seen in Kate Spade’s March 2023 design that was eerily similar to a traditional Indigenous ribbon skirt.  

Understanding the importance of these pieces and what each colour means preserves the history of Indigenous individuals while also giving them the platform to share their work, something Kate Spade did not do.

The stories embedded within Indigenous fashion are among the critical components of their wearability. By giving platforms to Indigenous creators to showcase their work, they can display and represent the deep history intertwined within each thread of the clothing they create.

Owner and artist of Inaabiwin Wiigwaas, Siera Hancharyk, spoke on this idea saying, “The kind of Indigenous fashion that falls outside of that would be anything that’s not sacred or regalia as long as the creator of the piece is okay with you wearing it.”

Hancharyk founded Inaabiwin Wiigwaas, her beading business, to address the confusion people had around supporting and wearing Indigenous pieces when coming from a different background.

Hancharyk explains, “wearable artwork that embodies Indigenous traditions' essence.” is her main goal.

She emphasizes the importance of Indigenous-made pieces, rather than Indigenous inspired.

By supporting an authentic Indigenous artist, individuals do not have to worry if they’re appropriating the culture. Additionally, many Indigenous artists like herself will craft or modify traditional beadwork into wearable art for everyone whilst still inviting customers to participate in the process of cultural preservation. 

When asked about the traditions she maintains in her more modern beadwork, Hancharyk explains that she continues to incorporate natural resources into her designs. The message in her adaptation of traditional beading is clear; it still tells a story.

The Wiikwemkoong artist documents her process of using gifted porcupine quills and stresses the importance of upholding the values of her ancestors, stating that examining the past is crucial to building a better future. 

* TW: Genocide

It is also important to acknowledge that minorities have struggled for many years to be included in ‘haute couture’. Indigenous communities in Canada have faced genocide, cultural cleansing and other various mistreatments. In turn, Indigenous fashion not only holds historical and spiritual meanings but can preserve the history of those who were not able to pass down their traditions. By allowing creators to have the publicity they deserve, the industry can make room for Indigenous creatives to share their stories and express the importance of the pieces they create. Simultaneously, this will ensure accessibility to specific pieces and enable the celebration of culture rather than the silencing of it.